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Waterford
02/07/25
Everyone knows that outside of Dublin, people of the so-called ‘real capital’ Cork shout the loudest. But unlike the Rebel County and its equally flashy neighbour Kilkenny, Waterford has been quietly winning people over for years.
And that’s many years. Waterford is Ireland’s oldest city, founded by Vikings in 914 AD, and it has that ancient vibe and magic you just can’t fake. You feel it in the cobbled lanes of the Viking Triangle, on the weathered stone of Reginald’s Tower (Ireland’s oldest civic building), and the infinite stories heard along the mile-long stretch known as The Quay. But this isn't a city stuck in the past. It’s alive, slightly chaotic, full of art, music, amazing scenery — and the most iconic sandwiches in Ireland (park that for later).
History that bites back
Waterford flings you into history headfirst. The Viking Triangle is the city’s historic heart — not named for its shape, but for the sheer number of axes flying around back in the day. Here, you’ll find the Medieval Museum and Bishop’s Palace, both part of the brilliant Waterford Treasures collective — essentially a museum crawl with more swords, scandal and old coins than a Game of Thrones binge watch.
But the jewel is the King of the Vikings experience — a virtual reality attraction inside a recreated Viking house, where you’ll come face to face with the Norse raiders who first made Waterford their home. It’s educational, immersive, and just the right amount of scary for kids and grown-ups alike.
Where to stay in Waterford
But we’re getting ahead of ourselves here. Before your Waterford adventure you need a base for your trip, so which hotels get the Lidl Breaks seal of approval?
Treacy’s Hotel: Right by the river and across from the train station, Treacy’s is a lively, central base with a leisure centre and nightly music in the bar. Great for couples, groups or anyone who wants an easy way home after a night on the town.
Waterford Marina Hotel
Tucked just off the Quay, this peaceful spot offers river views, free parking and a short stroll into the Viking Triangle. Ideal for chilled-out city explorers, families, or anyone who likes taking a time out to watch boats drift by. Click here for more information
Fitzwilton Hotel
Sleek, modern and just minutes from the city centre, the Fitzwilton offers smart style with an inclusive, welcoming vibe. Great for couples or solo travellers who want a boutique feel and easy access to everything — whether that’s the Greenway by day or cocktails and craic by night. Click here for more information
Nature calls
When the cobblestones have left their mark on your soles, it’s time to head coastal. And this is where Waterford comes into its own.
The Copper Coast, a stretch of jagged beauty between Tramore and Dungarvan, is a UNESCO Global Geopark and one of Lonely Planet’s top 100 offbeat places to visit. Think ancient cliffs, tucked-away beaches, and sea views so good they’ve caused existential crises. Bring walking boots, a camera, and someone you don’t mind sharing a flask with.
Then there’s the Waterford Greenway, a 46km cycling and walking trail from the city to Dungarvan, winding through viaducts, tunnels, fairy doors and old railway lines. It’s perfect for families, casual cyclists, and anyone whose idea of exercise includes regular snack breaks. You can rent bikes in town, or if you’re ambitious (or showing off), tackle it on foot over a couple of days.
Seaside fun and buckets of craic
Tramore, Waterford’s classic resort, is where half of Munster went on childhood holidays. You’ve got everything here for the classic Irish seaside experience — beach, amusements, arcades, chippers, and even surfing.
It’s ideal for families: build a castle, ride the bumper cars, chase seagulls, lose a euro in the claw machine. Kids will love Splashworld on a rainy day (there will be one), or Run Amuck in Tramore for soft play chaos.
Prefer a slower pace? The cliff walk from Tramore to Newtown Cove is a must. Bring snacks and gasp at the view.
Further along the coast, Dunmore East is all colourful cottages, seafood restaurants, and harbour views. Go in summer and you might catch the Dunmore East Bluegrass Festival, for Appalachian twangs on Irish cliffs.
The mighty blaa and where to eat it
Let’s finally address the flour-dusted elephant in the room: the Waterford blaa. A soft white bread roll, the blaa is an institution here, and fetishised all over Ireland. You’ll get it filled with sausage and rashers, piled with chips, or kept plain — but never treated lightly. Locals are passionate.
Pick one up from Barron’s Bakery in Cappoquin or Walsh’s Bakehouse in the city. For the full experience, wrap your mitts around a hot chicken fillet blaa and take it down to The Quay. That’s lunch sorted, and you won’t need dinner.
But if you do need dinner, Waterford delivers. Momo is a go-to for vibrant, globally inspired dishes with local heart. For fancier fare, Everett’s ticks every box — inventive, seasonal, and served inside a 15th-century wine vault. If fish and chips is more your vibe, head to McLeary’s or grab a portion to-go from Dooly’s and eat them while watching the river go by.
For pints and late nights, The Reg brings rooftop views and live music, while Geoffs is pure pub comfort and a cracking pint of Guinness. Tully’s, with its indie leanings and regular gigs, is a haunt you could easily lose an evening in.
Waterford’s greatest hits — the festivals
The city might be chill most days, but it knows how to throw a party. Key dates to aim for:- Festival (August bank holiday) – A wild weekend of street theatre, music, and parades that takes over the whole city. Think acrobats on cranes, pop-up performances, and kids with painted faces absolutely buzzing.
- Winterval (mid-November to Christmas) – A festive fever dream: markets, light shows, a vintage carousel and, allegedly, the real Santa. Or at least one who tries harder.
- All Together Now (August bank holiday) – A bit outside the city in Curraghmore Estate, but this festival has become a cult hit for music heads and hipster campers. They’ve had everything from Iggy Pop to Sugababes, spoken word and performance art in a forest glade.
Final thoughts
Look — it’s easy to overlook Waterford. It’s not screaming for attention. But that’s half the charm. It knows what it has: ancient bones, wild coastline, mad festivals, deadly food, and friendly people who love curious blow-ins.
So don’t just pass through. Stop. Stay. Have the craic, and get to know Ireland’s oldest city and the wider county.